Recommended network components

[markiteight]

Discussions about network issues has been moved here.
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[ljknewbie]

Hello,

I hope this is the right place for the question I have.

My home network has the service providers modem connected to a Netgear switch (not the suggested model as I require more ports) which provides separate direct wired connections to the Källa on a fixed IP from the main router.

The main Netgear switch (attached with the main router) also, through an independent cable, gets wired to a wifi router in the room for my wifi needs (phone/tablet/laptops etc).

The Källa power cable is independently connected to the wall socket without no intermediate devices like power strip etc. which I have kept powered on since I have installed the Källa.

Now to some questions which I hope haven’t been answered already. Tried the search feature but could not find a relevant thread/comment.

1. Should I get a separate switch as suggested? This will make the connection to the Källa through 2 switches. (Modem to Home Netgear switch to Källa Netgear switch)

2. The IP config is on Automatic mode but the IP will remain static irrespective of any internet/power failures (which strangely got tested due to an internet outage by service provider for a few hours. The IP didn't change even after I rebooted the Modem). Should I still create the static IP as suggested through the interface.? I would like to avoid this.

3. I saw on another topic that the Källa interface on safari shows the temperature and frequency. I do not see this at all. My firmware 16 and there are no updates.

Thanks for your answers

[lejonklou]

My home network has the service providers modem connected to a Netgear switch (not the suggested model as I require more ports) which provides separate direct wired connections to the Källa on a fixed IP from the main router.

The main Netgear switch (attached with the main router) also, through an independent cable, gets wired to a wifi router in the room for my wifi needs (phone/tablet/laptops etc).

The Källa power cable is independently connected to the wall socket without no intermediate devices like power strip etc. which I have kept powered on since I have installed the Källa.

Now to some questions which I hope haven’t been answered already. Tried the search feature but could not find a relevant thread/comment.

1. Should I get a separate switch as suggested? This will make the connection to the Källa through 2 switches. (Modem to Home Netgear switch to Källa Netgear switch)

2. The IP config is on Automatic mode but the IP will remain static irrespective of any internet/power failures (which strangely got tested due to an internet outage by service provider for a few hours. The IP didn't change even after I rebooted the Modem). Should I still create the static IP as suggested through the interface.? I would like to avoid this.

3. I saw on another topic that the Källa interface on safari shows the temperature and frequency. I do not see this at all. My firmware 16 and there are no updates.

Hi ljknewbie!

1. I can't say for certain that adding a GS-108T switch in between Källa and your main switch will bring an improvement. Maybe, maybe not. To be certain you need to compare with and without.

2. If you want to avoid it, then don't do it! The only reason the option of setting Källa to fixed IP is that there is a small improvement in sound quality to be gained. It's by no means necessary.

3. If you go to the web interface of Källa and press 'Settings', you will see the CPU temperature and frequency. None of them are of any practical use to the owner, but we use them to see that the tuning of the computer module is correct. The frequency should be drifting slowly around 900 MHz and the temperature is used to check whether it responds normally to workload. Some modules heat up more and then I replace them, because there's a correlation between that behaviour and sound quality.

What is the rest of your system and how is it powered? Although plugging Källa straight into the wall, it really matters more how closely it is powered to the pre amp. If the preamp is plugged into the first outlet of a power strip, I would put Källa on the second. Compare that to having it plugged directly into the wall! And before shutting down Källa, please go to the web interface, press 'Turn off' and wait five seconds until you hit the power button.

[lejonklou]

Update: I saw in your other thread that there’s a turntable, an Entity, Kikkin and Tundra in your system. Or at least soon will be.

Then I propose the following order for the components in your power strip:

Mains power in
Kikkin
Källa
Turntable
Entity
Tundra

That’s five units, are there any more? If it’s only five and you happen to have a strip with six outlets, I would suggest this:

Mains power in
1. Kikkin
2. Källa
3. Turntable
4. Entity
5. Empty outlet
6. Tundra

[ljknewbie]

My home network has the service providers modem connected to a Netgear switch (not the suggested model as I require more ports) which provides separate direct wired connections to the Källa on a fixed IP from the main router.

The main Netgear switch (attached with the main router) also, through an independent cable, gets wired to a wifi router in the room for my wifi needs (phone/tablet/laptops etc).

The Källa power cable is independently connected to the wall socket without no intermediate devices like power strip etc. which I have kept powered on since I have installed the Källa.

Now to some questions which I hope haven’t been answered already. Tried the search feature but could not find a relevant thread/comment.

1. Should I get a separate switch as suggested? This will make the connection to the Källa through 2 switches. (Modem to Home Netgear switch to Källa Netgear switch)

2. The IP config is on Automatic mode but the IP will remain static irrespective of any internet/power failures (which strangely got tested due to an internet outage by service provider for a few hours. The IP didn't change even after I rebooted the Modem). Should I still create the static IP as suggested through the interface.? I would like to avoid this.

3. I saw on another topic that the Källa interface on safari shows the temperature and frequency. I do not see this at all. My firmware 16 and there are no updates.

Hi ljknewbie!

1. I can't say for certain that adding a GS-108T switch in between Källa and your main switch will bring an improvement. Maybe, maybe not. To be certain you need to compare with and without.

2. If you want to avoid it, then don't do it! The only reason the option of setting Källa to fixed IP is that there is a small improvement in sound quality to be gained. It's by no means necessary.

3. If you go to the web interface of Källa and press 'Settings', you will see the CPU temperature and frequency. None of them are of any practical use to the owner, but we use them to see that the tuning of the computer module is correct. The frequency should be drifting slowly around 900 MHz and the temperature is used to check whether it responds normally to workload. Some modules heat up more and then I replace them, because there's a correlation between that behaviour and sound quality.

What is the rest of your system and how is it powered? Although plugging Källa straight into the wall, it really matters more how closely it is powered to the pre amp. If the preamp is plugged into the first outlet of a power strip, I would put Källa on the second. Compare that to having it plugged directly into the wall! And before shutting down Källa, please go to the web interface, press 'Turn off' and wait five seconds until you hit the power button.

Hello,

Thanks for your response.

Would try the out the switch, but looks like the model you recommend is no longer available. There is a corresponding model available which has power over the ethernet. Would you recommend a switch which is powered over the ethernet?

Located the temp/frequency on the interface and both are in order.

To answer your question regarding the other components.

1. Audio Research (vsi75) integrated tube amp directly connected to a wall socket. This moves to by second system once I get the Tundra.
2. Entity directly connected to another wall socket.

Both are individually powered by 2 different wall sockets independent of each other. ie not on the same wall strip. No other component is connected to either of the power points.

3. The Källa is connected to a 3rd independent wall socket. The second plug point of this wall strip powers the TT power supply/speed controller with a belkin power strip.

[ljknewbie]

Update: I saw in your other thread that there’s a turntable, an Entity, Kikkin and Tundra in your system. Or at least soon will be.

Then I propose the following order for the components in your power strip:

Mains power in
Kikkin
Källa
Turntable
Entity
Tundra

That’s five units, are there any more? If it’s only five and you happen to have a strip with six outlets, I would suggest this:

Mains power in
1. Kikkin
2. Källa
3. Turntable
4. Entity
5. Empty outlet
6. Tundra

Thanks for the above suggestions and will follow this. ;)

[erho]

A question regarding the Netgear switch, is that item to use with the delivered power supply or is it adviced to get a better one? Thanks you

[Sopper]

A question regarding the Netgear switch, is that item to use with the delivered power supply or is it adviced to get a better one? Thanks you

Supplied psu

[erho]

Thank you Sopper.

[Hermann]

I tried different power supplies, which initially came with different Netgear switches. Then two ifi power supplies and medically approved (Friwo) as longitudinally regulated types. Ultimately back to the original, whereby an power supply block from a old GS108T gets along perfectly with the new GS308T.

[erho]

I tried different power supplies, which initially came with different Netgear switches. Then two ifi power supplies and medically approved (Friwo) as longitudinally regulated types. Ultimately back to the original, whereby an power supply block from a old GS108T gets along perfectly with the new GS308T.

ok, thank you

[ThomasOK]

I tried different power supplies, which initially came with different Netgear switches. Then two ifi power supplies and medically approved (Friwo) as longitudinally regulated types. Ultimately back to the original, whereby an power supply block from a old GS108T gets along perfectly with the new GS308T.

I found the same although I didn't try the iFi, just the Friwo. If you live in a country where you this works it is also worthwhile plugging in the PS both directions. One sounds better and it varies with the PS.

[erho]

if I connect a Nas or Roon Rock which place on the switch should I use and also should I use the power block where the switch and streamer are connected?

[lejonklou]

I don’t know exactly what Roon Rock consists of, but I recommend staying well away from their software if you care about music. Källa works with Roon (well at least so far it has) but looses its magic. This is because the optimised timing of Protokoll is messed up by Roon taking charge of what is played and where.

If adding a NAS, yes it sounds best if connected to the switch and powered by the same strip as router/mesh point and switch.

[erho]

I don’t know exactly what Roon Rock consists of, but I recommend staying well away from their software if you care about music. Källa works with Roon (well at least so far it has) but looses its magic. This is because the optimised timing of Protokoll is messed up by Roon taking charge of what is played and where.

If adding a NAS, yes it sounds best if connected to the switch and powered by the same strip as router/mesh point and switch.

thank you for clarification, really helpful

[Zee9]

This may have been answered before but I couldn’t find an answer with a search. The main system also has a TV with a fire stick etc and I’ve kept the electrical and network switches separate.

An Apple AirPort Extreme caters to the video network connections and a gs108v2 just for audio. Is it detrimental to connect the gs108 to the Apple AirPort Extreme. The other option is to run a second cable from my router which just adds one more cable to the aesthetics and id prefer to avoid it.

Sorry I’m not very well aversed in network things.

[lejonklou]

I'd like to mention that Ubiquity AmpliFi HD mesh routers are now back in stock at many retailers in Sweden.

I highly recommend this unit, because not only is it the best sounding router we've tried so far (regardless of which streamer you are using, it just sounds very musical), but the WiFi it provides has also proven flawless. I've never had a router that was this simple to install and free of trouble. Never had to restart them, never upgraded the firmware, they just work.

As my impression is that Ubiquity seem know what they're doing, it would be nice to know whether any of their other models could compete in terms of musicality. It needs to have mesh units with an Ethernet port, in order for the recommended setup to be used (drawing below). There's the AmpliFi Instant System, for instance. And the AmpliFi Alien Router and MeshPoint. If anyone has experience with these, please let me know!

[u252agz]

Does anyone know how easy it is to have multiple units in the house?

I currently have one BT mesh unit connected to my router and 5 others around the house, two of which supply my Kallas.

I’ve never understood how long the range of each Amplifi unit is or whether you can easily use multiple units.

[Sopper]

I am using 6 Amplifi HD to cover my house
5ghz is much better then 2,5ghz, but has limited range, hence I need to use 6

My experience is they need to have “perfect” connection in the “Amplifi app”

[u252agz]

When you say 5.0ghz is better with limited range , does that mean you are not happy with the performance of 2.5ghz?

Also if does not have a perfect connection then you must be limited in exactly where you can place each unit?

[Sopper]

When you say 5.0ghz is better with limited range , does that mean you are not happy with the performance of 2.5ghz?

Also if does not have a perfect connection then you must be limited in exactly where you can place each unit?

Guess we are spoiled… but yes 2,5ghz is just too slow for my taste

It takes careful placement of the units to get perfect connections; mainly due to thick walls

[Sopper]

5 ghz

IMG_2579.png

2,5ghz

[u252agz]

Thanks very much Sopper,

I see what you mean -5ghz gives better speed at the expense of range.

My kallas sound great with my virgin Hub router and BT Mesh units - but I don’t know how much better the Amplify units would be.

I’m also a little nervous from switching from a system which is pretty reliable and gives good cover for the house and garden.

Decisions decisions.

[Hermann]

I had set up a pure audio network from the DSL router via LAN with three Amplifi HA. Unfortunately, it wasn't stable enough to transmit the audio stream without interruption. The AVM routers are much more stable in terms of range and wall penetration. However, they don't offer anywhere near the quality of audio that the Amplifi HD has. The audio network has now been reduced to just two HDs, which are supplied via LAN by the only AVM repeater. However, the Amplifi HD also has to penetrate a 20cm thick reinforced concrete ceiling and two approximately 50cm brick walls. In the pure audio network, the first two Amplifi HDs could not be forced into 5GHz mode. The AVM regularly offers in that band >450Mb/s.

I mentioned elsewhere that the Lan cable between the AVM repeater and the first Amplifi HD doesn't play a role. That's not right, because after some research here in the forum, I ordered two of these cables:

Microconnect SSTP CAT6 3M - Network cable (3 m, white)
https://www.manomano.de/p/microconnect- ... i-53694264

The difference is enormous and a bit more musical compared to a BJC6. However, after a while I didn't like it, I reduced the volume and that's an indication that something wasn't right. In the small system between the AVM Repeater and Linn MajikDS it plays better than the BJC.

I tested BJC5, BJC6, Microconnect and a few others that accumulate over time.