So.... when do we see some more power and active looms.... I'm running out !!!! ...had to recycle my 5103 internal power loom into a Kinos.... Which could use three, main board, digital board and Video board...
There must be some wire the can work as well.....
Unless I'm mistaken it's made the Kinos so much more revealing and detailed, it's striping back recordings warts and all now !!!..the tightest and cleanest tunes I've heard from my set up!
Internal Looms
Moderator: Staff
Hello 9designs and welcome to the forum!
For those who don't know what you are talking about: I used to make a special internal power cable for Linn units that have the Slimline Brilliant power supply, and also special cables for the Linn aktiv stereo and mono cards. These had to be discontinued when the cable I was using disappeared from the market. I was certain I could find a replacement and tried 42 other cables (yes, forty two) but none was better than the old discontinued cable. Frustrated I just dropped the project and went back to designing electronics.
I have no plans to go down the Slimline/Aktiv route again, but I do have 2 other cable projects running, and one of them will be released soon.
For the 8-way Slimline connections and the Aktiv stereo cards, the best cable that is available now is the very latest model that Linn supplied (there have been many types in the past). The text on the cable is the following: "LL84201 CSA AWM I/II A 80°C 300V 24AWG FTI COPARTNER". I really like this cable and it should be oriented with the text running from Slimline to main board OR from main board to Aktiv card for best results. They are available from Linn as spare parts (long and short) and I have them for sale if someone is interested. I have not compared them with my own cables, so I'm not sure which are the best.
PLEASE NOTE that NONE of the Linn units that ship NOW uses these 8-way cables, all new units changed to a 10-way cable during last year. The really old machines like Karik, Kairn, Kremlin and Numerik don't use this 8-way cable either.
DISCLAIMER: You are NOT supposed to open the machines yourself. Apart from the warranty becoming void, there is always the risk that you damage yourself or the equipment. A change of internal cables should be regarded as a service procedure and should be carried out by your retailer.
For those who don't know what you are talking about: I used to make a special internal power cable for Linn units that have the Slimline Brilliant power supply, and also special cables for the Linn aktiv stereo and mono cards. These had to be discontinued when the cable I was using disappeared from the market. I was certain I could find a replacement and tried 42 other cables (yes, forty two) but none was better than the old discontinued cable. Frustrated I just dropped the project and went back to designing electronics.
I have no plans to go down the Slimline/Aktiv route again, but I do have 2 other cable projects running, and one of them will be released soon.
For the 8-way Slimline connections and the Aktiv stereo cards, the best cable that is available now is the very latest model that Linn supplied (there have been many types in the past). The text on the cable is the following: "LL84201 CSA AWM I/II A 80°C 300V 24AWG FTI COPARTNER". I really like this cable and it should be oriented with the text running from Slimline to main board OR from main board to Aktiv card for best results. They are available from Linn as spare parts (long and short) and I have them for sale if someone is interested. I have not compared them with my own cables, so I'm not sure which are the best.
PLEASE NOTE that NONE of the Linn units that ship NOW uses these 8-way cables, all new units changed to a 10-way cable during last year. The really old machines like Karik, Kairn, Kremlin and Numerik don't use this 8-way cable either.
DISCLAIMER: You are NOT supposed to open the machines yourself. Apart from the warranty becoming void, there is always the risk that you damage yourself or the equipment. A change of internal cables should be regarded as a service procedure and should be carried out by your retailer.
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managerxxx
- New member
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 2007-02-03 19:53
Ikemi: Yes. 5103: Yes. Unless you have my power cables, which might be better.
5125 is a power amplifier that doesn't have a Slimline power supply, so the 8-way JST cable doesn't fit. But it has a cable assembly running from the switch mode power supply towards the main board and I recommend it being organized this way (the 'easy fix' method):
Each cable in the assembly is oriented so that the text that is printed on it is running the same way. The entire cable assembly should then be reinstalled in the amp with a twist of 1.5 turns between power supply and main board. Compare this with the entire cable assembly installed the other way around (same amount of twist). Depending on which cable you have (there have been several brands), one direction will sound more in tune. The end result - with the right direction and 1.5 turns of twist - will probably astonish you.
The usual disclaimer applies: Warranty will be void, lethal voltages inside, equipment sensitive to static discharge (placing one hand on a bare metal part of the case while working with the other is a good idea) etc.
managerxxx (funny name you have, no?): In a 5125 you should have one long and one short cable for the aktiv cards. You can email me at [email protected].
5125 is a power amplifier that doesn't have a Slimline power supply, so the 8-way JST cable doesn't fit. But it has a cable assembly running from the switch mode power supply towards the main board and I recommend it being organized this way (the 'easy fix' method):
Each cable in the assembly is oriented so that the text that is printed on it is running the same way. The entire cable assembly should then be reinstalled in the amp with a twist of 1.5 turns between power supply and main board. Compare this with the entire cable assembly installed the other way around (same amount of twist). Depending on which cable you have (there have been several brands), one direction will sound more in tune. The end result - with the right direction and 1.5 turns of twist - will probably astonish you.
The usual disclaimer applies: Warranty will be void, lethal voltages inside, equipment sensitive to static discharge (placing one hand on a bare metal part of the case while working with the other is a good idea) etc.
managerxxx (funny name you have, no?): In a 5125 you should have one long and one short cable for the aktiv cards. You can email me at [email protected].
Last edited by lejonklou on 2007-02-04 22:28, edited 1 time in total.
Frederik,
after having read much praise of your internal looms elsewhere :D , Im anxiously awaiting your 2 new wire upgrades you mentioned earlier in this thread. Safe to assume you will announce here when ready for sale?
BTW, thanks so much for starting this forum...look forward to learning more and more
after having read much praise of your internal looms elsewhere :D , Im anxiously awaiting your 2 new wire upgrades you mentioned earlier in this thread. Safe to assume you will announce here when ready for sale?
BTW, thanks so much for starting this forum...look forward to learning more and more
lp12, Keel, K Radikal, Urika, EkosSe/1 Kandid KK1/D, JBL 708p
Linn Pekin
Linn Pekin
Does somebody know the Linn article number for this loom, for example for the two looms inside an Unidisk 1.1/2.1?lejonklou wrote: For the 8-way Slimline connections and the Aktiv stereo cards, the best cable that is available now is the very latest model that Linn supplied (there have been many types in the past).
Regards,
Axel
So you are about to try it, tambrose? Great.
Usually the directions of the individual conductors are mixed. Then you have to simply disconnect all the conductors from its plastic housing in one end (this is done by pushing down a flap on the metal part of the connector and then pull the conductor out of the housing) and reverse all conductors that go one way.
When you are done, all conductors should run parallel and in the same direction from one housing to the other. If there is a plastic tube around the entire cable assembly, simply remove it. There might also be a cable tie you have to remove. These don't have to be retrofitted.
I should probably have written 'each conductor' instead of 'each cable' in my previous message... Sorry if I caused any confusion.
The usual disclaimer applies: Warranty will be void, lethal voltages inside, equipment sensitive to static discharge (placing one hand on a bare metal part of the case while working with the other is a good idea) etc.
Usually the directions of the individual conductors are mixed. Then you have to simply disconnect all the conductors from its plastic housing in one end (this is done by pushing down a flap on the metal part of the connector and then pull the conductor out of the housing) and reverse all conductors that go one way.
When you are done, all conductors should run parallel and in the same direction from one housing to the other. If there is a plastic tube around the entire cable assembly, simply remove it. There might also be a cable tie you have to remove. These don't have to be retrofitted.
I should probably have written 'each conductor' instead of 'each cable' in my previous message... Sorry if I caused any confusion.
The usual disclaimer applies: Warranty will be void, lethal voltages inside, equipment sensitive to static discharge (placing one hand on a bare metal part of the case while working with the other is a good idea) etc.